When award-winning designer and Central Saint Martins’ graduate William Palmer returned to London from Paris, taking on a minimum-wage job led him to question the traditional “breadwinner” ideal – where a man’s value is often tied to financial success. This reflection and critique of masculinity became the emotional spine of his final MA Fashion collection, unveiled at London Fashion Week.

We recently caught up with William to talk about the collection, what inspires him, and his bold take on fashion that values longevity, individuality, and a redefinition of traditional norms.

What is the inspiration behind the collection?

The collection was born out of a personal turning point – returning from Paris to London. In Paris, I had worked as a designer for brands like Gosha Rubchinskiy and ERL under their Dover Street Market Paris umbrella, and coming back to London meant I started over, taking on a minimum-wage job. It was then that I started to question what we mean by a “breadwinner wage”.

I wanted to subvert this notion with humour, including playful elements such as a loaf of a bread duffle bag or the “wedgie”, exploring capitalism and how childhood experiences shape adulthood. It’s a playful yet serious critique of the pressures men face to conform to rigid norms, proposing a more inclusive, emotionally expressive version of masculinity.

Visually, I imagined the collection as one big hangover party, with lads gathered at a British café, each bringing their own energy. Through relaxed silhouettes and oversized outerwear, it captures that messy, morning-after vibe while critiquing the rigid norms men are expected to follow.

Working with a fabric embedded in British culture

I’ve chosen Ventile for two of my core outerwear pieces as the brand represents a great ethical alternative with its organic, weatherproof cotton. The fabric comes in different weights, offering versatility, and the stone colour is a perfect representation of the iconic Mac and Harrington jackets, that are deeply embedded in culture.

Additionally, Ventile’s status as a British Heritage brand ties perfectly into my concept and story, reinforcing a connection to both tradition and modern sustainability. It’s a fabric that not only speaks to the aesthetic of the collection but also aligns with the values of heritage and conscious fashion.

A conscious sourcing decision

I believe designers need to prioritise sustainable fabric sourcing and truly consider the impact of their choices. While upcycling is important, it won’t solve the broader sustainability challenges, especially as the fashion industry continues to grow and mass-market brands, some of which do not champion sustainable fabrics, dominate the landscape.

There’s a lot of greenwashing happening, and it’s important to cut through that. If young designers advocate for sustainability and make more conscious sourcing decisions, we can help make sustainable fabrics more accessible, not just for smaller brands but for larger companies too. The more demand there is for sustainable options, the more those fabrics will become mainstream.

We must ensure our designs are high-quality, long-lasting, and carry social meaning. It’s about creating pieces that are cherished, passed down, and have a real impact. There’s far too much disposable fashion being made today that doesn’t stand the test of time. And you never know – those young designers may one day become the creative director of a big company, influencing the future of fashion on a much larger scale.

On the future

Looking to the future I see myself running my own design studio, working on collections that push boundaries both creatively and conceptually. I’d like to collaborate with brands that share my values around sustainability and authenticity, while continuing to challenge traditional views of masculinity and fashion.

I also hope to have developed a platform that supports sustainable practices within the industry, whether that’s through my own work or by partnering with innovative fabric suppliers and manufacturers like Ventile. I would like to foster partnerships that not only align with my sustainable ethos but also enhance the quality and relevance of my designs. Ultimately, I want to contribute to the evolution of fashion in a way that encourages emotional expression, individuality, and a more thoughtful approach to both design and consumption.

Check out William’s latest creations here!